Alaska Highway
Hunter and I have driven from NH to AK and back three times. The first time we made the drive was in April of 2022, and we took a month to do it, stopping along the way to see many beautiful sites in the US and Canada. We traveled over the Alaska highway.
The second time we made the drive to Alaska was in May of 2023. Again, we took our time, making lots of stops over three weeks. This time we chose to drive the Sewart-Cassiar highway, the only other way to cross Canada and enter Alaska. This route is further west than the southern part of the Alcan, and it parallels the Alcan as it travels North. It then connects to the Alcan, and travelers finish the journey to Alaska on the last part of the Alcan.
The third time we made the drive, we did it in record time! It took us just one week, with very few stops. We had planned to take the Alaska Highway, but due to wildfires it was closed. So, we traveled over the Stewart-Cassier highway again.
The information below is compiled from our many journeys to and from Alaska, as we have become very familiar with both the Alcan and the Cassiar highways.
Weather on the Alcan
The first year we drove to Alaska, we were passing over the Alcan in April. Driving through a snow storm this time of year is not uncommon, and that is exactly what we experienced. We also came upon a section of the road that was not paved. Luckily this section was short, but it was also very muddy and snowy. We felt lucky to have four wheel drive!
Pro tip: When driving the Alaska highway during Fall, Winter, or Spring, snow is definitely possible! Make sure to check weather forecasts, and be prepared. Plan gas stops ahead of time, because outside of summer, many gas stations are closed. The Milepost is a great book to have with you on the Alcan! It contains maps of each section, and information on food, gas, and other stops along the way. Since cellphone service is rare on the highway, this book is a life saver!
Road work is also very common on the Alcan. There are often short unpaved sections, wash outs, or single lane areas. 511yukon.ca, drivebc.ca, and 511.alaska.gov are great resources for road conditions.
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Dawson Creek
The Alaska Canada highway begins in a small industrial town called Dawson Creek. A common stop for Alcan travelers in this town is the mile zero of the Alaska Highway sign. After leaving Dawson Creek, the driving begins to get more and more remote.
Muncho Lake Provincial Park
Muncho lake is definitely worth a stop as you continue North on the Alcan. In the summer, this lake boasts clear waters and a beautiful turquoise color. It is a refreshing break from the drive, especially if you take a dip in the cool waters. The Northern Rockies Lodge is a beautiful lodge on the lake, offering camping, rooms or cabins, food, fishing tours, float plane tours, canoeing, hiking, and gas!
Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park
These hot springs are semi-developed. A dam has been built to form a hot pool, and there is a deck and changing rooms as well. Since it's April, there were very few people there. We enjoyed a nice hike across the boardwalks, through the bog to get to the hot spring. Soaking in the hot springs was amazing! You can choose the perfect water temperature by moving closer to the hot spring source, or further away. The boreal spruce forest surrounding the pool is gorgeous, and we decided to definitely stop on our way home as well! This is a must do when driving the Alcan. There is a $5 day use fee (per adult), and the park is open all year round! Make sure to stay on the boardwalk when approaching the hot springs in order to protect the surrounding environment.
If you ever drive the Alaska Highway, make sure to look for Bison! In the area around Liard, there are herds of bison all around. When I read about this in the Milepost, I was surprised - I didn't realize there were bison this far north. But, after we left Liard we saw many of them.
During the Ice Ages, a type of bison called Steppe Bison crossed the Bering land bridge from Asia to North America. These bison were larger than modern day bison, and had much longer horns. As they migrated across North America, they evolved into two subspecies: Wood Bison and Plains Bison. Eventually, the giant longhorn Steppe Bison became extinct. The Wood Bison adapted and thrived further north, while the Plains Bison thrived further south, forming the herds seen on the American Great Plains. In 1995, a herd of forty nine Wood Bison were relocated to the Liard River region of the Alaska Highway. The grass along the shoulder of the road are a tasty snack for them, so make sure to obey the "Beware, Bison on road" signs!
After some bison observation, we continued driving through Coal River to Watson Lake. After getting another rock to the windshield (luckily this one didn't leave as large a crack as the last rock), we arrived in Watson Lake. We visited the Sign Post Forest which, like many of the other quirky tourist stops on the AK Highway, was very unique. We spent the night at the Downtown RV Park, where we were able to do some laundry and take a shower.
Whitehorse
Another long day of driving. We drove through Rancheria, Swift River, Teslin, and Marsh Lake, to Whitehorse. Whitehorse is a big town by Yukon standards. It's actually the capital of the Yukon, and the largest city in the territory. Whitehorse played a major role in the Klondike Gold Rush in 1898; it was a supply center for prospectors and stampeders heading north to Dawson City. We made a quick stop here to grocery shop, and we visited the S.S. Klondike National Historic Site. The S.S. Klondike is a sternwheeler ship that ran freight back and forth between Dawson City and Whitehorse along the Yukon River in the 1900s. There were actually two S.S. Klondikes. The first one ran from 1929-1936, and then ran aground in June of 1936. The second Klondike (Klondike II), almost an exact replica of the first, was built from salvaged parts of the Klondike I, and ran from 1937-1950.
Miles Canyon is also a must-do stop in Whitehorse. There is a beautiful suspension bridge over the canyon, and lots of gorgeous hiking trails along the Yukon River.
Kluane Lake
After stopping in Whitehorse we continued through Ibex Valley and Haines Junction. Shortly after passing through Haines Junction we reached Kluane Lake. There are many pull offs along this section of the Highway that are great for camping. The Kluane Lake Gravel Pull Off has become our regular camping spot. There is beach access here, and you can walk right down to the water. During the summer, it is likely that others will be camping here too. There are no amenities (not even a pit toilet), so you much be self-sufficient. It is one of my favorite camp spots along the highway - beautiful views!
Just north of this camping spit there is a town called Destruction Bay. In the 1940s, there was a highway construction and maintenance camp in the bay. When a severe windstorm destroyed many of the buildings, Destruction Bay became the name of this wild, remote place. This small town of about 40 people lies in the foothills of Kluane National Park, which contains the highest mountain in Canada.
Boarder Crossing
The section of road after Destruction Bay is the bumpiest, most remote section of the Alcan. We frequently see many bears and moose during this part of the drive. The next major landmark is the boarder crossing into Alaska! Crossing back into the U.S. has always been easy and took no time at all for us, even when we had our puppy with us. Make sure to stop and take a picture with the Alaska sign!
End of the Road
After crossing the boarder there are many beautiful views as you travel towards Tok. To the south are the Wrangell mountains, and the beauty is endless! When you get to Tok, you can continue on to Delta Junction, which is the official end of the Alaska Highway. From Delta Junction you can continue on to Fairbanks and Denali National Park, or you can turn south and travel on the Richardson Highway (an amazing drive with lots of views!). Typically we turn off of the Alcan in Tok, and head south to Glennallen (since we always head to Seward). So far, we have made it one out of three years driving to Alaska without cracking a windshield on the way! Be prepared for that possibility if you are driving in Canada or Alaska.
